No subject

only have to worry about condensation when warm moist air passes cold
surfaces. If cold air passes warm or hot surfaces any moisture it carries
would evaporate.

Like I said it was too long ago ;P

Cheers
Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-melbwireless at wireless.org.au
[mailto:owner-melbwireless at wireless.org.au] On Behalf Of Dean Collins
Sent: Friday, 3 October 2003 5:45 PM
To: Weeties; melbwireless at wireless.org.au
Subject: RE: [MLB-WIRELESS] AP Box cooling

Wont that allow condensation to form inside the box because it is no longer
airtight? (I don't have an external ap so I don't know how airtight these
boxes are in the first place).

Dean

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-melbwireless at wireless.org.au
[mailto:owner-melbwireless at wireless.org.au]On Behalf Of Weeties
Sent: Friday, 3 October 2003 5:30 PM
To: melbwireless at wireless.org.au
Subject: Re: [MLB-WIRELESS] AP Box cooling

Hey all,
wow! Soooo much trouble

Why not just insert a 90 degree PVC bend facing downwards at the bottom side
of the box (i.e. on the side, not the bottom, but the bottom side)and one at
the top. (4 if need be) Available at any hardware and in many sizes. Silicon
them in and you've got convection cooling, and rainproof
Probably look a bit like a moon landing module, but cheap and easy. Hide 'em
by painting the flat black. (Don't start about the heat, they're outside the
box)
Sometimes there's just too much brain power in this mailing list

cheers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gizi" <gizi at iinet.net.au>
To: <melbwireless at wireless.org.au>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MLB-WIRELESS] AP Box cooling


> Hi,
>
> There are a few reasons why this may not work, a solar light is off during
> the day and on at night, it therefore has the entire daylight period to
> charge (probably into some low loss capacitor or such).  During night when
> on the 'battery' is used to light the LED's not the solar cell.
>
> Now most LED's require bugger all power, 0.02A @ 3.5V (=> 0.07Watts), my
> guess would be that the solar cell built into these is a lot less
powerful,
> guessing say 0.01Amps @ 3.5V => 0.035Watts.
>
> The lowest power consuming fan I have seen (quick look) is 80mA (or 0.08A)
> at 12V => 0.96Watts, as you can see you would need a lot of solar lights
to
> power the fan, even at 25% six lights under optimal conditions.
>
> However if you picked up one of those $25 solar cells from tricky dickies,
> 12V at 0.07A you might just squeeze some rotation out of your fan under
good
> conditions (ie direct sunlight, the right angle, etc, etc).
>
> But all in all why make life any more complicated than it needs to be, you
> have to get voltage up to the box to power the AP so spend the extra bucks
> on a 12V power pack, a 5V regulator and just tap the raw 12V.  If you want
> to get real tricky buy a light activated switch kit to turn your fan
on/off
> as needed.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon Staines" <gstaines at theage.com.au>
> To: <melbwireless at wireless.org.au>
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 3:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [MLB-WIRELESS] AP Box cooling
>
>
> > And here am I thinking that a small fan at the bottom, power by one of
> > those cheap solar panels from dick smith.
> >
> > The solar reason: The fan would run fastest when there was the most heat
> > - ie direct sunlight. and be off at night (when we use AP the most,
> > hence less noise from the motor) also when its generally not too light
> > when its raining and cold
> >
> > Also can get those solar powered garden lights which have a mount, are
> > weather proof etc, it wouldnt take much to take the light out and retro
> > fit one, and they cost under $25 at bunnings
> >
> > cheers
> >
> > G
> >
> >
> > darrend at ndpgroup.com.au wrote:
> >
> > >Mike would keep it cool by launching it into orbit (from the Hawthorn
> > >Aerospace launch site) strapped to the side of a rocket. All the way
moon
> > >bouncing the 2.4GHz video footage back to earth, realtime encoded to 5
> > >simultaneous media streams :P
> > >
> > >Darren Dreis
> > >Vice President
> > >Melbourne Wireless Inc.
> > >vicepresident at wireless.org.au
> > >http://www.wireless.org.au
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Michael Borthwick <holden at netspace.net.au>
> > >Sent by: owner-melbwireless at wireless.org.au
> > >03/10/2003 11:33 AM
> > >
> > >
> > >        To:     melbwireless at wireless.org.au
> > >        cc:
> > >        Subject:        Re: [MLB-WIRELESS] AP Box cooling
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>Steven wrote:
> > >>
> > >>Has anyone added a cooling system to their AP box?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >There are a couple of ways of approaching this depending on your
> > >point-of-view.
> > >
> > >Darren would install the entire AP into a slotted waveguide and use
that
> > >as an enormous ventilated heatsink.
> > >
> > >Vak would run Liquid Nitrogen over Ethernet (LNoE) using specially
> > >reinforced and insulated CAT-5 cable containing glass fibre capillary
> > >tubes terminated with blue anodized aerospace connectors.
> > >
> > >Clae would install a peltier effect cooling module from Oatley
> > >Electronics powered by an array of ex-Telstra solar panels suspended
> > >from a balloon filled with hydrogen created by electrolysis from a
> > >converted Kombi alternator that doubles as an arc welder.
> > >
> > >Tony would point out that your cooling problems are trivial compared to
> > >those that hams fans running ATV in the same part of the band who could
> > >wipe your signal out any time they wanted too.
> > >
> > >Rick would have a BBQ and pour beer over it.
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe: send mail to majordomo at wireless.org.au
> > >with "unsubscribe melbwireless" in the body of the message
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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